One of the most enjoyable species I’ve bred is the bearded dragon. From the day they hatch, until their growth at 6 weeks, it’s an adventure. That is not to say that breeding is all fun and games. It comes with responsibility and hard work also. Breeding bearded dragons can be a very enjoyable experience.
Diet

Prior to breeding, during breeding, and during gestation of all clutches, the female requires a diet somewhat suited to that of a “pregnant” dragon. Of course she’ll require more greens, but she’ll also require more proteins and calcium and vitamins as well. As she develops eggs, her body will use it’s own resources and without proper supplementation your dragon may become thin, weak and suffer from deficiencies. The proper ratio for females at this time is 50% greens, 50% proteins with supplementation 3-4 days per week.
Preparations for Breeding

The optimum minimum age is 18 months for a female dragon. Her body is still growing prior to this age, even if you can’t see it at that time. Those of you who consider your dragon your pet, will care about her well being afterward as well. She should begin her journey at no less than 350 grams and should spend 2-4 weeks preparing for breeding, gestation and laying of her clutches.
You will want an incubator ready to go before her lay cycle. It’s important to setup in advance because you need to have a constant temperature/humidity level for hatching. The suggested levels for proper egg incubation are 83-84 degrees Fahrenheit and 80-85% humidity. The eggs will need to be in containers with damp hatching material. The material you choose could be vermiculite, perlite, hatchrite, or a mix. Each breeder has their own preference.

You’ll want to prepare to have hatchling bins and extras (No more than 3-5 hatchlings per bin), paper towels, a source for crickets, or your own feeder stock, lighting and additional fixtures and bulbs as well as an additional allowance for the power bill the increase in lighting will cost. Before beginning any breeding project, you should have fecals run by a reputable herp vet.

Introducing Male and Female Dragons

Different breeders choose the specifics of mating according to their own preferences. Some prefer to introduce the male to the female enclosure. Some vice versa. I prefer open spaces and allow my dragons to mate in an almost uncontrolled amount of space. I allow them several visits per week, then again two weeks later.
Mating can be a forceful and quite brutal event to the on looker. Dragons are often bitten and nipped during mating. However, if aggression becomes too worrisome, feel free to separate them.

After the mating you will want to continue with the increased protein intake as well as the heightened calcium intake previously suggested. The appetite of the female typically increases and she will begin gaining weight.

The male may remain agitated during this time and his frequent bursts of energy may cause him to lose weight. Considering relocating his enclosure for a time so that he cannot see or sense the female.

Setting Up the Lay Box

I prefer to use a large Rubbermaid storage box, which is much longer than the average “baby bin” type container. I also prefer to use a sand/soil mix for my lay box substrate. A heating pad is typically placed below the bin on the ground to warm the soil from the bottom up and a light is placed within a dome to warm the soil from the top down. The substrate needs to be damp but not wet. I just cover the box with a typical window screen or enclosure screen top and place my lights on that. UVB isn’t necessary during laying.
The substrate of the lay box should be higher and deeper on one end of the container than the other. The female will dig her hole and position herself to lay her eggs. She should be left alone and not disturbed, although you can sit and watch. The process can take several hours, but should not go into days. If your dragon seems to the delay the laying process, a vet visit is in order to ensure she is not egg bound.

Once the female has deposited her eggs, she will cover them and exit the hole. You can remove her to the tub for a nice warm soak at this time. If you remove her before she covers the eggs, removing them gets easier. Be sure to check all of the corners of the bin for eggs.

Caring for the Female

Your female is tired, and she may not be interested in food at this time. Now that she’s finished with her soak to rehydrate her, place her back in her enclosure with a fresh bowl of greens and proteins if the appropriate feeding hours are present. You may also choose to alter your lighting schedule for the next few days to offer her a better access to your schedule for feeding.
Caring for the Bearded Dragon Eggs

I like to use the Glad Sandwich disposable containers to incubate my eggs in. Drill about 5 holes around the container on the side. Dampen the incubation material (Vermiculite or Hatchrite) by putting the material in a large cup and adding warm water. Allow to sit about 3 minutes, then drain off any excess water (Perlite sits about 10-15 minutes). Vermiculite and hatchrite should clump when you squeeze it in your hand, but water should not drip out of it. Perlite appears to be less damp than the other substrates. Put this material into the incubation boxes. Make small indents with your finger into the perlite, vermiculite, or hatchrite mixture in your small containers and place one egg in each indent. Be certain not to turn the eggs from the way you pick them out of the lay box. Carefully place them in your container the exact way it was in the lay box. Remember, thru the entire incubation process: NEVER TURN THE EGGS.
You’ll want to invest in a Hovobator Still Air Model incubator (the safest cheapest method for first timers) prior to breeding. Have it set up and steadily maintaining 83-84F temperatures. Place the containers of eggs and a cup of water inside the incubator and sit back and wait. You’ll want to check the eggs every few days for signs of collapse or fungus. You’ll also want to keep checking the dampness of the substrate. If the substrate feels dry, you can add water, but do not spray the eggs.

Your female may lay 3-4 clutches per breeding anywhere from 2 weeks to roughly 30 days apart. Remember to keep her protein and calcium levels up at this time.

Care for the Hatchlings

Now it’s been 60-85 days and your eggs are collapsing and starting to look “sweaty”. It’s hatching time. Do not assist the babies out of the egg regardless of how long this takes. It will severely injure them.
After they have hatched out you can leave them in the incubator for 12-24 hours then move them to the baby bins. Check each baby before placing it in the baby bin to ensure it has absorbed its yolk sac. The yolk sac typically absorbs quickly and he may need to stay in the incubator another 24 hours. For substrate in the baby bins, you’ll want to use paper towel. Offer finely chopped greens upon placing babies in bins, they will begin eating crickets within a few days. Crickets should be proportionally sized and no larger than the space between their eyes. Babies should be fed 3 times a day. They also need to be soaked in a warm bath 3-5 times a week. Lighting is the same for babies as it is for adults and temperatures should be set at approximately 108-115F to prevent dehydration and allow proper digestion. Lack of UVB in baby dragons can result in metabolic issues quickly.

Babies can be sold at 6 weeks or no less than 6 inches in size.