Frequently Asked Questions About Bearded Dragons:

BATHING

How often should I bath my beardie?

As often as you like, but once a week is good. Keep in mind that this may vary based on how your beardie is behaving. Remember, being soaked is another way for your beardie to get hydrated.

Therefore, if your beardie has not been drinking from a squirt bottle or his dish, then you want to make sure you are bathing him regularly.

If they are not pooping, then you may find that giving them a warm bath helps this process along. Just make sure they don’t go swimming in it afterwards as this can cause disease.

If you can’t give them a bath each week, make sure you give them a good soak with the spray bottle on the weeks you can’t bath them.

Ours didn’t like the bath at first but now he just swims and swims and doesn’t want to come out.

What is the best way to do it?

We have found that the best way for them and for us is to get a container that fits well in your sink. This make things very easy for cleanup as well.

Fill the water only to where it will reach their chest. You want your beardie to be able to keep their head above water whenever they wish to.

What temperature should the water be?

The temperature should be luke warm. You don’t want it too hot, but you don’t want it to be cool at all. As a matter of fact, when the water begins to get cool because they have been in for a bit, it is time to take them out and dry them off with a paper towel.

LIGHTING

What lighting do bearded dragons need?

Bearded dragons need the full spectrum of sunlight, UVA and UVB. This allows them to produce the proper amounts of vitamin D they need to survive. Bulbs producing this light should be 10-12 inches from your beardie to allow them to soak up their rays.

Natural sunlight will do the trick. However, be very careful not to put your beardie in a glass enclosure while in direct sunlight. The glass will concentrate the heat from the sun and burn your bearded dragon. If you would like to do this when you can, we recommend purchasing a separate screened enclosure so they can venture out into the sunlight.

Do you recommend any particular lights?

For an all-in-one this Mercury UVA/UVB/Heat Lamp was a life saver when starting out. When we were worried most about impaction, this was the all-in-one lamp that helped the most. It produces proper amounts of UVB/UVA and also serves as a basking lamp.

It is worth the money to have this all-in-one especially if you are dealing with a 20 gallon terrarium and are limited with space for lights. Let us know if it serves the same for you.

As you move to a larger terrarium and need to space out the basking areas and shade areas, the ReptiSun UVB Flourescant Bulbs can provide the basics (UVA/UVB) throughout allowing you to just spot heat where needed with other, smaller bulbs.

Zoo Med’s linear fluorescent UVB lamps are made in Germany with the highest quality UVB transmitting quartz glass, with beneficial UVB emissions lasting a full twelve months! The UVB emissions from these lamps will help to prevent or reverse metabolic bone disease in captive reptiles, birds, and other animals. In addition to UVB, Zoo Med’s ReptiSun, Iguana Light, and PowerSun lamps also emit beneficial UVA wavelengths which stimulate feeding, reproduction, and natural behavior patterns in reptiles, amphibians, and birds.

These lights come in varying sizes, this link directs you to the 36″ length which should be the zie for a 4ft long terrarium (approx 60-70 gallon)

SUBSTRATES

What should I be cautious of?

No matter what substrate you choose, just be careful that small pieces are not eaten. This could cause serious internal injry including impaction. Since they make little or no sound, it is hard to tell when they have issues going on inside.

If you choose sand, make sure you sift through it when replacing it. I have found small pieces of glass (sand is ground glass you know). If you choose others, again, just try and remove any real small pieces.

I don’t recommend pebbles of any sort and this can cause toe nails to break etc.

What is your preference?

We started with carpet when our beardie was young. Until of course when you read that they can eat any loose fibers and die.

We have sand now, as they are desert creatures. Opinions are varying amongst what to use and many say stay away from sand, however, numerous breeders and pet store owners have all used sand.

It just seems the most natural to me and when balancing it all together, it seems easiest to keep clean.

BRUMATING

What is Brumating?

Brumating is a form of hibernation most Bearded Dragons go through. Beardies less than 1 year old may brumate, but it is rare. This is typically adult behavior.

Our Beardie did not brumate until he was about a year and a half.

When do Bearded Dragons brumate?

Typically, it is when the weather cools down during the fall months and leading into winter. However, we have a theory that our Herp Vet entertained and did not tell us we were out of our minds.

Bernie seems to brumate when we turn the air conditioner on for the first time. he does not brumate in the winter when it is cold outside. He performs this action when it is cold in the house. So, our theory is that the outside weather does not matter. It’s the temperature in the house. The year we were pregnant, us humans, not the Beardie, we ran the AC extremely cold. Bernie brumated for a long time.

What are brumating behaviors?

Bearded dragons go into a semi-hibernation state. They will sleep more. Go into a shaded area of their home. And eat less. This behavior typically lasts for a couple weeks to a couple of months. Like I said above, when our AC is cranked really low, the bromating timeframe lasted a long time.